Discovery Program
For the general consumer, it appears that the two sides
of Carneros are both on display in the 2003 Pinots.
Striking a balance as old style and new co-exist in Carneros Pinot Noir
by Dan Berger, Regional Editor
Changes in clonal selection have lead to a broadening of what can be considered the regional character of Pinot Noir from Los Caneros.
At any point in time, wine regions are going in twin directions, each with a single goal -- to satisfy the consumer. At one end of the Carneros spectrum is the old style which is distinguished by herbal characteristics along with dark cherry notes. The newer style emphasizes darker fruit with a lot less of the herbal character. However, a number of the wines found to be typical of the appellation express elements of both styles, due to their clonal makeup which includes both older Martini as well as the newer Dijon clones. For the general consumer, it appears that the two sides of Carneros are both on display in the current (warm) vintage wines.
Twenty years ago, lovers of Barolo launched into a grand debate over a major challenge to tradition. The purists were those who supported wines that hewed to the old line and were hard with tannin that only age would tame. Modernists called for the newer style of wine that was made with more time in French oak barriques, with less tannin and more alcohol.
Though that debate has since subsided some, the message is one that could well be applied to almost any wine in today’s world. Whether it’s new world Chardonnay (full-on malolactic) versus the older style (lean and crisp); Cabernet Sauvignon (new: plump and fat vs. old: graceful and food-oriented), or even Pinot Noir (new: alcoholic and black in color vs. old: more elegant, paler style), it all comes down to one thing:
At any point in time, wine regions are going in twin directions, each with a single goal -- to satisfy the consumer.
Precisely that issue arose when we sat down to taste and evaluate a group of 22 Carneros Pinot Noirs from 21 different producers. All the wines were from the 2003 vintage, which is regarded to be a pretty good vintage. As we began to discuss the first flight of 11 wines, it was evident that there was a tentativeness on the part of the five official judges as well as from some members of the confirmation panel of 14, most of them wine makers who use Carneros fruit.
The hesitation to define the regional signature of Carneros Pinot Noir, some 60 years after the first Pinot grapes were planted in the area, came as a result of a number of major issues. One of the most obvious was clonal selection, a hot topic among Pinot producers in the last decade.
Older clones such as the Martini clone (which supposedly makes a lighter, more elegant wine) and the Swan clone (which is a tad more earthy and complex) are rated as making more distinctive aromas of trace green herbs, with hints of beets and mint. Newer French clones such as Dijon 115, 667 and notably 777 are reputed to be “darker” and more concentrated, with black fruit components. (Not to mention more alcohol.)
Most of the newer clones have been in California soil for a decade -- not long enough for most wine makers to feel totally comfortable with them. But with such clonal distinctions now so evident in the wines, many wine makers are loathe to discuss regional character with any specificity. That’s because we are in a state of transition, moving from a period when many Carneros wines were distinctively herbal along with dark cherry notes, and decidedly did not have the Russian River Valley’s more obvious strawberry tones.
The newer style emphasizes darker fruit with a lot less of the “thyme” character associated with wines from places such as Monterey County’s Santa Lucia Highlands or New Zealand’s Central Otago district.
That said, however, it was interesting to hear the wine makers speak of some of the wines as having a bit “too much” of the herbal notes which knocked a few of the wines out of the “Appellation Signature” list. But others with the right amount of herbal notes did make it onto the final list. (see below)
Michael Richmond of Bouchaine was clear when he pointed to the fact that a part of Carneros’ heritage was in a wine style that accepted a bit of the herbal along with the darker fruit components. And indeed, a number of excellent wines, as it turned out, were in fact made from more than just a tad of the old Martini clone, which many wine makers admitted they still found to be the heart of great California Pinot character.
As we see more and more wines dominated by the clones 667 and 777, said the wine makers, many are learning how difficult it is to predict harvest dates for these newer clones, which were bred for a cold climate.
Since 2003 was a rather warmer year, wine makers were on the lookout for any early indication that it was time to pick Pinot. Some admitted that a minor heat spike might have caused a rise in sugars to the point where alcohol levels might have been a bit elevated.
The results, in this early look at Carneros Pinot Noir, were not terribly conclusive. However, for the general consumer, it appears that the two sides of Carneros are both on display in the current (warm) vintage wines. That is, some wines show a trace of the green herbal notes that are so attractive with a bit of bottle age, and others are riper and still will be better with a few more years in the bottle.
As the years go by, we all hope we’ll see a more distinctive definition of the character of the region.
"Appellation Signature" Wines
The following list of wines were found to represent at least one of the current styles of Pinot Noir from Los Carneros, and in some cases, the wines carried elements of both signatures. The wines are listed alphabetically rather than in any order of preference.
Twenty years ago, lovers of Barolo launched into a grand debate over a major challenge to tradition. The purists were those who supported wines that hewed to the old line and were hard with tannin that only age would tame. Modernists called for the newer style of wine that was made with more time in French oak barriques, with less tannin and more alcohol.
Though that debate has since subsided some, the message is one that could well be applied to almost any wine in today’s world. Whether it’s new world Chardonnay (full-on malolactic) versus the older style (lean and crisp); Cabernet Sauvignon (new: plump and fat vs. old: graceful and food-oriented), or even Pinot Noir (new: alcoholic and black in color vs. old: more elegant, paler style), it all comes down to one thing:
At any point in time, wine regions are going in twin directions, each with a single goal -- to satisfy the consumer.
Precisely that issue arose when we sat down to taste and evaluate a group of 22 Carneros Pinot Noirs from 21 different producers. All the wines were from the 2003 vintage, which is regarded to be a pretty good vintage. As we began to discuss the first flight of 11 wines, it was evident that there was a tentativeness on the part of the five official judges as well as from some members of the confirmation panel of 14, most of them wine makers who use Carneros fruit.
The hesitation to define the regional signature of Carneros Pinot Noir, some 60 years after the first Pinot grapes were planted in the area, came as a result of a number of major issues. One of the most obvious was clonal selection, a hot topic among Pinot producers in the last decade.
Older clones such as the Martini clone (which supposedly makes a lighter, more elegant wine) and the Swan clone (which is a tad more earthy and complex) are rated as making more distinctive aromas of trace green herbs, with hints of beets and mint. Newer French clones such as Dijon 115, 667 and notably 777 are reputed to be “darker” and more concentrated, with black fruit components. (Not to mention more alcohol.)
Most of the newer clones have been in California soil for a decade -- not long enough for most wine makers to feel totally comfortable with them. But with such clonal distinctions now so evident in the wines, many wine makers are loathe to discuss regional character with any specificity. That’s because we are in a state of transition, moving from a period when many Carneros wines were distinctively herbal along with dark cherry notes, and decidedly did not have the Russian River Valley’s more obvious strawberry tones.
The newer style emphasizes darker fruit with a lot less of the “thyme” character associated with wines from places such as Monterey County’s Santa Lucia Highlands or New Zealand’s Central Otago district.
That said, however, it was interesting to hear the wine makers speak of some of the wines as having a bit “too much” of the herbal notes which knocked a few of the wines out of the “Appellation Signature” list. But others with the right amount of herbal notes did make it onto the final list. (see below)
Michael Richmond of Bouchaine was clear when he pointed to the fact that a part of Carneros’ heritage was in a wine style that accepted a bit of the herbal along with the darker fruit components. And indeed, a number of excellent wines, as it turned out, were in fact made from more than just a tad of the old Martini clone, which many wine makers admitted they still found to be the heart of great California Pinot character.
As we see more and more wines dominated by the clones 667 and 777, said the wine makers, many are learning how difficult it is to predict harvest dates for these newer clones, which were bred for a cold climate.
Since 2003 was a rather warmer year, wine makers were on the lookout for any early indication that it was time to pick Pinot. Some admitted that a minor heat spike might have caused a rise in sugars to the point where alcohol levels might have been a bit elevated.
The results, in this early look at Carneros Pinot Noir, were not terribly conclusive. However, for the general consumer, it appears that the two sides of Carneros are both on display in the current (warm) vintage wines. That is, some wines show a trace of the green herbal notes that are so attractive with a bit of bottle age, and others are riper and still will be better with a few more years in the bottle.
As the years go by, we all hope we’ll see a more distinctive definition of the character of the region.
"Appellation Signature" Wines
The following list of wines were found to represent at least one of the current styles of Pinot Noir from Los Carneros, and in some cases, the wines carried elements of both signatures. The wines are listed alphabetically rather than in any order of preference.
- Adastra Wines
Pinot Noir, Carneros, 2003 - Artesa Winery
Pinot Noir, Carneros, 2003 - Bouchaine Vineyards
Pinot Noir, Carneros, 2003 - Ceja Vineyards
Pinot Noir, Carneros, 2003 - Cuvaison Winery
Pinot Noir Estate, Carneros, 2003 - Gloria Ferrer
Pinot Noir, Carneros, 2003 - Kent Rasmussen Winery
Pinot Noir, Carneros, 2003 - MacRostie Winery and Vineyards
Pinot Noir, Carneros, 2003 - Madonna Estate
Pinot Noir, Carneros, 2003 - Mahoney Vineyards
Pinot Noir, Carneros ~ Las Brisas Vineyard, 2003 - Merryvale Vineyards
Pinot Noir, Carneros, 2003 - Patz & Hall
Pinot Noir, Carneros ~ Hyde Vineyard, 2003 - Robert Stemmler Winery
Pinot Noir, Carneros, 2003 - Saintsbury
Pinot Noir, Carneros, 2003 - Toad Hall Cellars
Pinot Noir ~ Dijon Clones, Carneros, 2003
No particular herbal notes, but a toasty, bacon fat sort of overlay to the strawberry/cherry fruit. Bright, focused fruit flavors, with lovely structure, good acidity, and a wine that should age nicely for a few years.
The New Carneros version with black currant, black cherry and delicate berry notes. Relatively complex, with a faint hint of resin and a long, complex finish in which the oak plays a distinctive role. Still the fruit dominates into the attractively balanced finish.
Hints of toasty, bacon-y overlay aromas, elegant berry/cherry fruit and beautiful use of oak, so the “sweet” impression on the nose is offset by a trace of herbal character (that Carneros stamp!). Nice dried spice and cola notes in the finish. Handsomely crafted.
Minty/spicy aroma. More cherry than berry, with a bit of resinous wood and a faint leathery note. Traces of tar and a substantial tannin level, but the wine’s concentration bodes well for its aging potential.
A classic example of the New Carneros, with a blackberry and cherry fruit component amid the faint dusty, herbal undertones. Oak imparts a faint “brown sugar” note, and the rich, fat, sweet mid-palate indicates a wine too soft to age. However, the acid reappears in the finish. This wine is about two to four years away from showing all its charms.
A wine that has one foot in the Old Carneros (with a faintly earthy, Burgundian note) and the new (with racy black cherry elements). There is a bit of a hard edge to the tannins, but aeration opens the wine to reveal great acidity, fruit and charms that deliver classic food compatibility.
Here is Classic Carneros and New Carneros all rolled into one! Huge cherry fruit, with hints of cranberry and spice. But also hints of roses, cinnamon and dried eucalyptus. One taster found a trace of sweetness from fresh fennel, and all agreed the wine was perfectly balanced. No overt oak to confuse the fruit. A faint cola note in the finish indicates it will age nicely.
Distinctive Old and New Carneros spice! Hints of clove and cinnamon with a bit of mint and cola. Delightful cherry and spice notes with superb acid, but still a plush finish. A handsome version of the older style of Carneros with a hint of the new.
Intriguing nougat, candy-store sort of aromas compete with classic leafy-herbal notes. A tad blunt and jammy, but with good silkiness and a potential to improve. Tannins are a bit high at the moment.
Old Carneros notes of dried herb and cherry and a hint of fresh tomatoes. A slight chocolate note in the finish adds complexity. This wine has attractive dark cherry fruit and should be better in two years.
Excellent Pinot definition, with a racy cherry aroma, good acidity and structure. Tannins are soft and pliable with a trace of oak in the finish. Slight spice character and good length. Just a tiny trace of dried herbs, adding complexity.
The oak treatment here is a bit more obvious than is the fruit, with a caramel/toast note that competes for attention with delightful red cherry and a hint of spice. The wine has great acidity to keep it crisp, but it’s now a bit uni-dimensional and needs a couple of years to develop.
Relatively complex aroma, with a plum and berry aroma; high-tone Carneros spice, but a slightly earthy character. Oak and eucalyptus notes detract from the fruit, but aeration helped to open it a bit. Needs a year or two.
Bright cherry fruit; complex but less well developed at this stage, needing an hour of air to reveal more of its potential. A delicate roasted nut note from oak aging adds interest now, but another two years is needed for this relatively soft wine to open up. A bit angular on the palate at this point.
Here the distinctive green herbal charm of an earlier era shows up intertwined with high-toned berry and cherry fruit. The finish is attractively crisp and the wine needs a couple of more years to open up all its latent flavors.
